Saturday, 13 October 2012
Friday, 12 October 2012
Encore France: Day 4 - Train Tickets, Comedie-Francaise, Exchange Rate Rip Off
After another
great night’s sleep we woke up fairly early today, our last day in Paris before
heading off to the Picardie region for our canal boat trip.
Breakfast
yesterday was so good that, being the creatures of habit which we are, we
headed down to the same place for another delicious start to the day. Then, happily replete, we wandered down the
boulevard, onto Blvd St-Michel, along by the river, just being there,
basically. We caught a bus that took us through the 6th and the 7th
and up to the Eiffel, where we just loitered with absolutely no intent
whatsoever around the gardens for some time, watching the crowds and the
African souvenir sellers. We then decided to take a walk down rue de l’Université
to check out the location of the apartment which we had rented for our time in
Paris post-boat trip. It is in an excellent location, just on the corner of rue
de l’Université and rue Malar, so very close to a couple of supermarkets,
buses, the river, some great shops, excellent bakeries – oh, and of course rue
Cler, that favourite street of Americans (mind you, we did pick up some
marvellous cheeses and pates there, so they are on a good thing with that
particular spot).
Deciding it
was time to go get our train tickets, it was a case of jump on another bus, one
that took us down to Opera, where we changed buses for one that would drop us
at Gare du Nord. Now, I know you are probably saying, “Why not the metro?” Were
we in a hurry? Were we keen on seeing only the faces of other travellers? Were
we so jaded with Paris that we didn’t want to just feast our eyes constantly?
No, no, and no. We like catching buses with the locals, getting around cheaply,
and with the bonus of actually seeing where we are going, or perhaps where we
wish we were going.
Now, I was
pretty well prepared for the whole business of buying the tickets. We hadn’t
booked them in advance, but I had checked on train times, possible routes, etc,
and I had written down for myself an idiot’s guide to asking for what we
needed. Referring only briefly to my notes, I managed to get through, “Good
morning. I would like two tickets, return, Paris-Albert for tomorrow, on the
xxx train, please.” Smooth as silk, honestly. The woman behind the counter
understood me perfectly, and in no time at all I had the tickets in my hot
little hand. I did wonder why at every other ticket window such a simple
transaction seemed to involve much drama. I have since discovered that that is
really quite normal in France, and adds to the colour of the place.
Wandering out
of the station to grab a coffee from one of the many restaurants thereabouts,
we were amused to watch a few Roma women playing their letter game and then
playing hide and seek with the police. Ah, what’s the letter game? Well, some
tourist walking along the street – often easily identifiable with fanny packs,
cameras, baseball caps, big happy grins – is approached by one of these Roma,
perhaps a woman, either old or young, perhaps a young person, who holds out
a creased up letter and, with such an
imploring voice, asks, “Please, please, you speak English? You speak English?” They
manage to look so pathetic that I imagine lots of people are only too pleased
to assist with whatever is the problem. Now, it hasn’t happened to us, but from
what I have heard the scam is that they then tell you that they have received
this letter, in English, about some family tragedy back home, and they need
money to assist with whatever the disaster may be which has befallen their
loved ones. Of course, good-hearted tourist reads the letter out to them, feels
guilty that they have so much and these poor people have so little, and
generously hands over some money. Three words here: DON’T DO IT! And I’ll tell
you another time about the gold ring scam; that’s a real doozy that catches
lots and lots of tourists.
The French
seem to get very up in arms when anybody suggests that these scammers on the
streets are unacceptable, almost as if they are earning an honest living and
not living off the French government. They are dishonest, they often makes
hundreds of Euro a day, and a lot of the money goes straight back to their
crime bosses in Romania or wherever. As far as I’m concerned, while it might be
a bit amusing to watch them working cons like this, it’s a real negative for
European cities.
Enough,
already!
After our
coffee we caught a bus back to the Madelaine and then walked along rue Royale
and across Place de la Concorde so that I could check out the little park at
the start of the Champs Elysees which I had been promising myself to visit. It’s
called, I think, Park Pierre Cardin. It’s small, it’s absolutely lovely, and it
was a joy to spend some time there after the noise of Gare du Nord. There were,
as is usual in Paris parks, people reading books, people drinking wine, young
men kicking soccer balls around, and young lovers kissing. It’s a great spot.
We then wound our way through our lovely
Jardin des Tuileries, crossed rue de Rivoli by the Louvre (God, I love saying
things like that), and made our way to the marvellous Palais Royale/Comédie-Française. We had
visited CF on our last trip, but somehow managed to totally miss the lovely
Palais Royale gardens. How is that possible? I have no idea. The little park is
just lovely, and it was wonderful to watch the locals just peacefully sitting
around on benches reading their newspapers at the end of the working day. The
surrounding apartments and shops are just beautiful. We saw the most wonderful
specialist music-box shop which sold the most exquisite items, and I really
wished that there was a little girl back home somewhere who we could buy one
for, but such is not the case. Oh, and not to be overlooked are the incredible
designer clothes. This is not cheap shopping, but it is totally gorgeous.
By this time
it was well after midday and we were absolutely starving. Remembering that
great little bistro from our previous trip, we headed down rue St-Honoré,
and there it was, just around the corner from rue St-Roch, looking no
different, and with the same husband and wife team running the place. The day
was quite cool and we felt like some good, filling country type fare, so we
ordered accordingly – you know, cassoulet, lentils, that sort of thing – and of
course I just simply asked for our usual, a pichet of rosé.
The owner reeled back in horror and let out the loudest, “Non, madam. Non.” He
was horrified that I would even think of pairing a rosé with such food and told us he
would bring us the red. He was right, of course: the food was hearty, and the
full-flavoured red was just the perfect accompaniment.
It was time to
change some money as we didn’t want to risk running out of Euros while on the
canal. We knew that there were a few money changers on rue de Rivoli (of
course), and so we headed for the one just around the corner from rue St-Roch.
Thinking that there may be quite large discrepancies in exchange rates, I
checked first on how much we would receive there for Aus$500. The man behind
the counter fiddled with his calculator and told us he would give us €228.
We thanked him and moved on to the next place – and Amex cash changer. Again,
we asked what we would get for our 500. This time we were offered only €200.
We were disgusted and told him that we had just been offered 228. He offered to
match that, but we refused the offer, telling him that as he had been willing
to rip us off for €28 we were not interested in doing business with him. We
then walked further up the road to the money changer we had used a few times
previously, and there we received the lovely amount of €247 for our Aus$500. Now,
bearing in mind that we can buy a delicious, big, breakfast for two for only €22,
or that we can get perfectly good wine for about €4 a bottle, that’s one hell of
a difference. I always tell people to shop around before exchanging money, but
still see people just automatically tripping into those Amex type places. What
a way to waste money.
With our train
tickets in my handbag, our tummies filled, and our cash reserves topped up, we
decided to head back towards the hotel, this time on foot to walk off some of
that fantastic food. As we walked along Blvd St-Germain we noticed a street
full of restaurants and decided to check it out for later reference. Now, I
know that those of you who have been to Paris a few times will be crying out, “No,
don’t do it. Don’t go there.” Well, luckily, there was nobody calling out such
warnings to us at the time and so we ambled along that street, taking in all
the different cuisines and characters.
The choice was endless, and the prices were great and so we decided to
come back in the evening for dinner.
Back now to
the hotel for – yes, the usual – a long bath, a good book, and a couple of
glasses of wine (of course, the man knocked out the usual zzzzzs while I
luxuriated).
When it was
time for dinner we made our way back to the street of eats. The restaurant we
chose to dine in deserves an award. I could call it a Greek restaurant, but I
think actually it’s probably a Cypriot one, albeit Greek Cypriot. I have never
in my entire life, nor in my dreams, nor even in my childhood fantasies,
imagined such a place. You can’t speak about the décor, because that word just
doesn’t cut it. This was like a whole bunch of old ladies had been let loose to
overdo everything to their hearts’ content. There was stuff everywhere, and I mean
stuff, and I mean everywhere. You could not see the ceiling, for instance,
because every sort of light shade and fitting imaginable hung from, stuck out
from, or was attached to that ceiling. The walls, which are of that
particularly ugly stucco, are then very “lavishly” decorated with paintings,
plants, plates, mirrors, dolls, musical instruments, etc. etc. etc. On every
available bit of shelving there is more junk, even gnomes of every persuasion,
even plaster American Indians. Honestly, this place is A MUST. You will not see
anything like it in your travels. I just wish I had kept their card so I could
pass on the name to you. My mind was so boggled I could have forgotten to eat.
This was architectural theatre, and it was so bad it was wonderful!
Now, you may
not believe it, but the food was really quite yummy – not wonderful, but yummy –
and was excellent value. I had moussaka, and it was as good as I’ve had in most
Greek restaurants back home. We washed our meal down with a bottle of Cypriot
wine, which was clean and delicious.
Once again
full as googs, we walked slowly arm in arm back to our hotel, down streets
still abuzz with people and life. It was time, though, for us to hit the sack
after another lovely, lovely day.
Come with us
tomorrow as we set off on another fantastic canal boat trips in beautiful France.
Wednesday, 10 October 2012
Encore France: Day 3 - Stunning Church, the Pantheon, Luxembourg Gardens
After a
fabulous deep, restful sleep we were eager to get out onto the streets of Paris
again, just to breath it all in and take in the sights and sounds. A quick
shower and we were off. Down rue Monge and onto Boulevard Saint-Germain where
we found a great bistro that offered breakfast of fruit juice, baguette with
jam, croissant, ham and cheese omelette and coffee all for just €8
each. Couldn’t resist that, could we? And honestly, it was all absolutely
delicious. The place was fairly full, and mostly with locals, which is always a
good sign.
With satisfied
tummies we set off on an amble to explore the area, and – joy of joys – came across
a really fantastic street market. The fruit and vegetables were nothing short
of beautiful. The smells and colours were such that you never get with our homogenised,
pasteurised, blandestised supermarket offerings back here. It was actually
wonderful just to walk around that section. Olives, cheeses, pates, wines. Ah,
totally gorgeous. We spent quite a bit of time chatting to various
stallholders, who all invited us to sample their product and were more than
happy to spend time chatting (just make sure you point out that you are
Australian, not English). There were, of course, stalls other than food, and I
selected some lovely scarves as gifts for folks back home. I also picked up a
fabulous hat for myself and one for my man.
Donning our
new headgear, we headed back to the hotel to deposit our goodies and change
into cooler tops as the day was warmer than we had expected.
Out again, and
this time we strolled up rue
Saint-Jacques, pausing to look at that lovely hotel of the same name, which
had been on my shortlist because of the charming decor. Our –maybe-we’ll-get-there-maybe-we-won’t
destination was the Pantheon. On the way there, however, we veered off to
streets right and left, always discovering lovely bits of architecture or little
secret gardens. Thus it was that we found ourselves outside one of the
loveliest churches ever, Saint
Etienne-du-Mont. Built in 1492, the year that Columbus was bumping around
the Caribbean, this stunningly beautiful church deserves to be one of the major
tourist attractions in Paris, but I am so glad it isn’t because we were the
only people there and were able to just sit and take it in in peace and quiet.
![]() |
| Photo courtesy Wikimedia |
I didn’t even take our camera out of the bag; just had a feeling that the place
was so lovely that I only wanted to enjoy it with my eyes. It was light, and
light-filled, and spoke of a religion based on love and not condemnation and
fear. The photographs I’m adding here are from Wikimedia, copyright-free, and I’m
offering them so that you can perhaps appreciate how sometimes you don’t feel
inclined to reach for the Lumix.
![]() |
| Stunning isn't it. Photo courtesy of Wikimedia |
After such a
beautiful stop on the way, we walked slowly the few blocks to the Pantheon. It is indeed impressive; it
is indeed quite beautiful. We could – we did – spend quite some time there,
fascinated by the Fulcrum and the stunning works of art adorning the walls. My
man did descend into the bowels of the building to the crypt where so many
famous people are interred – Marie Curie
(the only woman to be so honoured), Victor
Hugo, Emile Zola, Louis Braille, René Descartes (go away, Monty
Python song). It’s a really special place, incredibly elegant and a fitting
resting place for such great minds.
Back out on the street, we paused to admire some of the surrounding buildings and colleges. Hugely impressive was the town hall for the 5th arrondissement, as I’m sure you’ll agree. After this, we will never again think of our local council offices as excessive.
It was now a
lovely downhill stroll to Luxembourg
Gardens, but on the way – oh, do envy me, please – we came upon the most
incredible ice-cream shop (better, in my opinion, that Bertillon), Amorina Gelato. Honestly, what we
purchased in there were not ice-creams; they were works of art. The ice-cream
is scooped out with a flat paddle and built up petal by petal (yes, that’s what
I said) until what you have as the finished product is the most perfect flower,
opening out delicately at the top of the cone. And let me assure you, the
stunning flower is in no way let down by the flavour. These ice-creams are
beautiful to look at and wonderful to eat.
And so we came, still on our Amorina high, to the Luxembourg Gardens, that lovely, lovely park which some people declare to be the most beautiful park in the world. Are they? Ask me when I’ve visited all the parks in the world. Photographs never do them justice. They are like something out of a fairy tale, complete with a lovely castle overlooking their walkways and fountains. I do know that we absolutely love Jardin des Tuileries and always will, but Luxembourg Gardens are nothing short of magnificent. Could I choose between the two? I don’t think so; they are both special and magical to me.
And so we came, still on our Amorina high, to the Luxembourg Gardens, that lovely, lovely park which some people declare to be the most beautiful park in the world. Are they? Ask me when I’ve visited all the parks in the world. Photographs never do them justice. They are like something out of a fairy tale, complete with a lovely castle overlooking their walkways and fountains. I do know that we absolutely love Jardin des Tuileries and always will, but Luxembourg Gardens are nothing short of magnificent. Could I choose between the two? I don’t think so; they are both special and magical to me.
We wandered around the gardens for quite some time, stopping and sitting for a while on a bench to watch a young female diving into huge piles of autumn leaves while her boyfriend filmed her joyous antics. That was gorgeous, and I have to admit we wished it was us jumping into those enormous piles with such abandon.
We also discovered a tiny little garden where everything is in miniature, just a scaled down garden for scaled down little people – and no smoking allowed in there. Wonder of wonders!
From the gardens we walked through the 6th until we came to Saint Sulpice. Now, I know that this church is a must-see for those who enjoyed Dan Brown’s “Davinci Code”, but I found it gloomy and horrible. Even the doors were somehow forbidding, and I thought it seemed more like a place of condemnation than salvation. At the time of our visit, a film crew was making a movie there and so we, and other visitors, had to stand back for a while, watching the proceedings, until we were allowed to enter through that dark, heavy door. I wish I knew what the movie was. I watch quite a lot of French films, and the actress certainly looked familiar but I couldn’t think of her name. Anyway, our visit to this church was quite short, and we both felt so relieved to just get outside and back into the sunshine. Urgh!
We wandered around the gardens for quite some time, stopping and sitting for a while on a bench to watch a young female diving into huge piles of autumn leaves while her boyfriend filmed her joyous antics. That was gorgeous, and I have to admit we wished it was us jumping into those enormous piles with such abandon.
We also discovered a tiny little garden where everything is in miniature, just a scaled down garden for scaled down little people – and no smoking allowed in there. Wonder of wonders!
From the gardens we walked through the 6th until we came to Saint Sulpice. Now, I know that this church is a must-see for those who enjoyed Dan Brown’s “Davinci Code”, but I found it gloomy and horrible. Even the doors were somehow forbidding, and I thought it seemed more like a place of condemnation than salvation. At the time of our visit, a film crew was making a movie there and so we, and other visitors, had to stand back for a while, watching the proceedings, until we were allowed to enter through that dark, heavy door. I wish I knew what the movie was. I watch quite a lot of French films, and the actress certainly looked familiar but I couldn’t think of her name. Anyway, our visit to this church was quite short, and we both felt so relieved to just get outside and back into the sunshine. Urgh!
| Just so stunning. |
It was by now, as you can appreciate, mid-afternoon and we were starving. Somewhere along Boulevard Saint-Michel we spotted a café which appealed, a tiny place full of lovely wafting cigarette smoke so that we could indulge in a bit of passive smoking to our hearts’ content while feasting on delicious Croque Forrestier and quaffing the usual delightful Cote du Provence rosé. Ah, perfect.
It was by now, as you can appreciate, mid-afternoon and we were starving. Somewhere along Boulevard Saint-Michel we spotted a café which appealed, a tiny place full of lovely wafting cigarette smoke so that we could indulge in a bit of passive smoking to our hearts’ content while feasting on delicious Croque Forrestier and quaffing the usual delightful Cote du Provence rosé. Ah, perfect.
| I know you want to see more of this fabulous place. |
It was then
quite a walk back to the hotel, stopping along the way at a Fran Prix to top up
the milk, munchies and vino supply. A long lovely bath waited.
Dinner was taken at Le Twickenham, a restaurant on Boulevard Saint-Germain. We had really hesitated about going there as the name put us off so much. Let’s face it, that name just reeks of a place frequented by visiting Brits, and so wasn’t at all appealing. We were about to walk past and go elsewhere but a waiter who was both pushy and charming (can there be such a combination?) inveigled us inside, and so we found ourselves seated – not surrounded by a bunch of Brits, not surrounded by anybody really – inside and partaking of our evening meal there. The meal was ordinary in the extreme, and the Twickenham is not an experience we will repeat. Just glad that it wasn’t too expensive.
Dinner was taken at Le Twickenham, a restaurant on Boulevard Saint-Germain. We had really hesitated about going there as the name put us off so much. Let’s face it, that name just reeks of a place frequented by visiting Brits, and so wasn’t at all appealing. We were about to walk past and go elsewhere but a waiter who was both pushy and charming (can there be such a combination?) inveigled us inside, and so we found ourselves seated – not surrounded by a bunch of Brits, not surrounded by anybody really – inside and partaking of our evening meal there. The meal was ordinary in the extreme, and the Twickenham is not an experience we will repeat. Just glad that it wasn’t too expensive.
A slow stroll back to the Agora, a glass of port for another top day in Paris, and our heads were ready to connect with the pillows and we slipped into the arms of Morpheus.
| And how about this guy? Fabulous in the extreme. |
A slow stroll back to the Agora, a glass of port for another top day in Paris, and our heads were ready to connect with the pillows and we slipped into the arms of Morpheus.
| What an image to take into dreamland. |
Catch you tomorrow, when I’ll tell you about one of the most memorable restaurants we have ever visited – actually, I can’t imagine anything ever equalling it.
Tuesday, 9 October 2012
Encore France: Day 2 - An Amazing First Day in Paris
After a great
Air France breakfast, we enjoyed a smooth-as-silk touch down at CDG to discover
that, because of the time difference being even greater with French daylight
saving, it was still dark, dark, dark in Paris.
Once through
immigration (and, yes, stamps in our passports this time), we were directed to
a little train. Huh? Yes, we, along with a zillion other people, boarded a
little airport train which took us to the baggage area. And no waiting here,
folks: the luggage from our flight was already there, so we picked up our
suitcases and walked straight out to the arrivals area, where our driver was
waiting for us. There had to be something wrong, though, didn’t there? Yes,
there was: one of our suitcases had been badly damaged and was now sans one
wheel, making it impossible to just pull along behind us. A bummer as we really
liked that purple case. The traffic from the airport into the city, probably at
the start of the morning rush hour, was just insane, with motorbike riders zapping
along weaving between cars and trucks – they provide entertainment as you go.
8.00 o’clock,
and it is still pitch-black. Incredible. 8.30, and there is a hint of light in
the sky. Yes, yes, yes, we begin to make out buildings and people. It’s so long
since I lived in Europe that I had forgotten how dark mornings can be.
We arrived at
our fantastic little hotel, the Agora
Saint-Germain, just before 9.00 o’clock, way too early to get into our
room. We were welcomed by a lovely member of staff, Ailen, who showed us where to leave our luggage, gave us a little
map and suggested we come back in a couple of hours.
The location
of the hotel was fantastic, right in the Latin
Quarter, on rue des Bernardins just
off rue Monge, with just about
everything you could possibly want in walking distance. We headed off down rue
Monge and onto Boulevard Saint-Germain, and then right onto Boulevard Saint-Michel until we reached
the river – ah, we are definitely back in beautiful Paris when we see the
Seine. We cross the bridge over to the Ile-de-la-Cité, walking alongside the police
headquarters until we reach Notre Dame
de Paris.
| Notre Dame de Paris, with less people than you are likely to see. Message is: go early. |
Please note: if you are off to Paris and want to visit Notre Dame, go early in the morning. It was probably now about 9.30, and there were no crowds, hardly anybody around. It was so quiet I was unsure whether it was even open, but then I saw a couple of people coming out through the doors and realised that, yes, we could enter. I had not felt any great desire to visit, but once we entered the cathedral it was as if all the air was sucked out of my body, as if my very physical self was in awe. For a Catholic it must be really overwhelming; for a non-Catholic like me it was incredibly inspiring, humbling in its majesty. It truly is everything and more that you could expect and hope for, a totally amazing place.
| Quite beautiful. |
From there we strolled around the island and enjoyed a few minutes of lovely peace in the delightful park behind the cathedral.
We had planned
to stroll back to the Latin via the next bridge along, but on our way to do so
we were very surprised to find that the Memorial
to the Deportees, something which was on my list of places to visit during
this trip, was right there in front of us when we crossed over the road. At
first we thought we were in another little park, but then noticed the steps
leading down from the park to the river level and realised where we were. I had
not for a moment expected to come across this on day one.
The Memorial
is accessed by very steep, very narrow steps leading down from the quiet little
garden. It is just a small open space and a few tiny rooms. There are no
attendants, no souvenir stalls, just signs requesting silence and respect. Carved
into the walls are the names of the various concentration camps which the
deportees were sent to, and there are signs explaining the various categories
of those deportees. There are small cells which you can look into through
barred windows, but nothing is dark, all is pale creamy limestone. The most
touching bit of the Memorial is a corridor, a long, narrowing corridor which
you can’t enter but which you simply look down through bars. The side walls of
this corridor are embedded with shining crystals, one for every Parisian who
was deported. Even writing about it now I feel like crying. There were a few
other visitors to the site, but not one person was speaking, everybody was
silent, everybody was incredibly moved and no words were either necessary or
sufficient.
That visit to
the Memorial to the Deportees will
stay with me for ever. It is a truly moving tribute to those 200,000 people who
were “deported” by the Nazis, people who were dragged from their homes and sent
away, never to return.
Feeling much
quieted, but so privileged to have visited such a place, we crossed the river
back to the Latin and walked along by the river. Time for another totally
unexpected surprise, the chance to visit another place which was “on my list”: Shakespeare & Co. Hemingway, Fitzgerald, Pound, Joyce – and me; we’ve all been there. What an
amazing, chaotic, exuberant store. I loved it, and could have spent hours trawling
through the place were it not for the fact that our stomachs were now demanding
attention.
We stopped for
lunch at the Café
Depart Saint-Michel where we enjoyed a great meal and a pichet of delicious
rosé
from Provence. It was fantastic sitting there at a table by the window and
watching that amazingly busy area, life being played out as if on a screen.
Suddenly, cops
seemed to appear from everywhere - lots and lots and lots of them. Firstly,
they blocked off all traffic from the bridge. This was accompanied by much
blowing of whistles. Then that barrier was removed and tape was placed across
another street to block that off, again with beaucoup beaucoup blowing of
whistles. And then, lo and behold, nothing happened! They then removed that
tape and blocked off yet a different street. Oh, and with all those whistles,
of course. Crazy, huh?
Now, this
lasted for quite some time, probably over half an hour. Police cars whizzed
everywhere, cops on motorbikes tore around like absolute loonies, and those on
the street got their thrills by constantly blowing their whistles. It was quite
deafening, absolutely fascinating, and the most insane of street theatre –
certainly kept all the diners intrigued.
The weirdest
was yet to come, however. While watching all this high drama from the comfort
of our restaurant table, I looked into one of the police cars speeding past and
– what?? – the policemen inside were all wearing full-faced balaclavas. This day
was our first day in Paris, remember, and already it was just amazing. Bursting
with excitement, I told my husband about the cops in balaclavas, but he – oh,
Doubting Thomas that he is – did not believe me. He hadn’t seen, and so he didn’t
believe. He said, “No, you must be mistaken; they were just normal cops in
normal gear”. Don’t worry, his words would come back to bite him later in the
day.
As quickly as
it had all started up, so it died down and returned to normal – well, as normal
as a Paris street can be with two amazingly tall (I mean, they looked at least
7 feet tall) leather-clad transvestites marching along the Boulevard in their
second-skin tight body suits. One was all in patent black leather, head to
towering platformed boots, and the other in white, with lots of chains and
silver embellishment. They were almost as fascinating as the police street
theatre, and were hungrily followed by American tourists with large cameras
eager to get some good shots to show the folks back home.
What
entertainment we had had; it was wonderful.
Replete now
and ready for a bath and a good rest, we headed back to our hotel when, about
halfway along Boulevard Saint-Germain,
we hear police sirens start up again and a veritable caravan of police cars
come tearing along the street at VERY high speed. Just like everybody around
us, we stopped to watch, and – guess what – in some of the vehicles the occupants
were all wearing full-faced balaclavas. But wait, there’s more: they were also
holding (and balancing over the backs of seats and on window ledges) automatic
rifles. And do you know what? My man saw it, and he believed.
We got back to
the hotel, collected our luggage and went up to our room, a lovely comfortable
one with a great view over the street to the church across the way. I quickly
unpacked and then luxuriated in a long, deep bath while the man pushed out the
zzzzzs. Once refreshed and changed, we headed down the street to where we had
spotted a Fran Prix – so convenient –
and picked up some wine and munchies. Back to our room, sat by the window,
sipped wine, nibbled on our munchies, and watched the Parisians going about
their business down on the street.
For dinner we
visited an Algerian restaurant around the corner from the hotel. The meal was
delicious – delightfully spicy without being hot, just subtle, tantalising
flavours – and we washed it down with a bottle of Algerian wine, which was
light and lovely.
Ah, and now it
is time for bed, perchance to sleep, to sleep perchance to dream – no, the
whole day has been a dream already, let’s just sleep.
See you
tomorrow.
(PS. Apologies for the lack of photographs - not really our priority today.)
Monday, 8 October 2012
Encore France: Day 1 - Travelling
(Sorry, folks, no photographs today [lots coming]. Just read, close your eyes, and imagine yourself in a big, silver bird flying off to the place of your dreams and you will have all the images you need.)
Wow, I can’t believe it: here we are ready to head off to wonderful France again. It’s been France, Hong Kong, and now we get to revisit the place we so fell in love with.
Right
from the start we knew this trip would be interesting. Instead of the usual
hanging around, hanging around, drinking over-priced coffee or (much cheaper)
booze at the airport, we got chatting to a couple of men from Scotland. One of
them, a middle-aged bloke, works in the offshore industry and had been out here
in Western Australia for a while on business. He had really enjoyed himself but
was looking forward to getting home to family and friends. The other, a young guy, will stay in my memory for ever, I think, because I felt so
incredibly sad for him. He was ex-British Army. He had served his time in the forces,
including a total of 11 months in Afghanistan. Once demobbed, with money he had
saved over a few years, he make a dream come true and bought his ticket to
Australia. He would spend 12 months Down Under, learning to surf, seeing the
outback, sleeping under the stars near Ayres Rock, hopefully meeting lots of
lovely tanned, blonde Aussie girls. After only being here a week, he received a
phone call last Thursday from the Department of Defence, recalling him to
active service. Of course, as I know from personal experience, he would have
been on the A-reserve for a while and liable to be called up, but here was this
lovely young guy whose life dream had just been totally shattered. He told us
that he would be flying into London and reporting for duty, getting kitted out
etc. He had been told that he would be shipping out to Afghanistan again within
three days. He had also served in Iraq and said he considered Iraq a holiday compared
to Afghanistan; he hated that place and called it a part of hell. I wanted to
give him a hug. I did say a little prayer for his safety. I think of him often,
still mention him in my prayers, and just hope he got through okay. “Okay” is
relative, though, isn’t it. Meeting him really made me realise again how
incredibly lucky we are, and how uncertain is life – so enjoy it when you can.
Ah,
back to lighter things. On the plane we were seated next to a fascinating
woman, an Italian lady who has lived in the UK, Australia, Switzerland and
France. She now lives back in Italy, where she and her husband run a school in
Bologna. I didn’t ask why she had been here, but imagine she had been visiting
friends or family. Seated next to her was a young Anglo-Indian Australian guy
who was on his way to England to meet up with friends living in London. His
plan was that he and his mates would then spend four months touring around the
Continent. This lovely Italian lady gave him her card, invited him and his
friends to come visit with them in Bologna, and ensured him that she would make
sure she lined up some young people she knows to show them around and make sure
they have a great time in that part of Italy. I was really struck by such warm,
and obviously very genuine, hospitality and generosity of spirit.
The
young soldier; the middle-aged lady. Somehow an incredibly human start to a
holiday.
At Singapore Airport we freshened up, had a great coffee and cake in one of the many cafes, and then boarded our Air France flight to Paris. On this trip we flew
mixed class – Qantas economy to and from Singapore and then Air France business
Singapore/Paris/Singapore. Economy is fine for the short five hour flight up to
Singers, but it was fantastic to move to the AF 777 business class. The seats
were comfortable in the extreme, the flight attendants were – of course –
gorgeous, and the food was absolutely superb. Oh, oh, oh, I salivate just
thinking about it.
I
was struck, though, that most of the movies which had been on offer on the
Qantas flight were also amongst the selection on Air France, and I fully
intended to enjoy a couple of them. So, fully replete after a meal of pate de fois gras, chicken cooked in a cream
sauce to die for, melon sorbet, cheese, port and coffee, I eased back in my
seat, donned my headset, and watched a fabulous movie, “The Bank”, while
sipping on a fantastic Bordeaux and nibbling the finest of chocolate.
Does
it get any better? Possibly, but this will do me just fine.
See
you tomorrow in Paris.
I'm Back ... Let's Go.
You have been so patient waiting for a boarding pass
to take off again with me.
Well, you need wait no longer.
to take off again with me.
Well, you need wait no longer.
Where do you think we're off to now?
Here's a clue: it's a return journey.
Need another: c'est magnifique!
Yes, that's right, we're back to France. From the first moment we landed there on our first trip,
we both knew we would be back as soon as possible.
Yes, that's right, we're back to France. From the first moment we landed there on our first trip,
we both knew we would be back as soon as possible.
Life, as we were reminded at the airport prior to departure on this holiday, is very short and we have to do what we can when we can. On a trip years ago we met a fascinating character whose motto was "Life is short and unpredictable. Eat dessert first".
Come and enjoy dessert with me.
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